While on cafes, if you ever ask for a cafe au lait in Paris you need help. You will immediately be branded a tourist and all that comes with it including a huge American-sized mug of coffee. I didn't have a problem because after trekking up and down Montmartre looking for just the right sunny table with Carole, she ordered. But the trick is to ask for un creme—and you will be in and given the quaint (that's all any civilised person would drink) French size.